
Here we are about to start our hike early in the morning on Day 2. Day 1 was devoted to driving and prepping at a car campground along the gorgeous Chiwawa River (to avoid hiking in the heat of the afternoon). Because we didn’t start hiking until Day 2, this will be an introduction to the course rather than a description of Day 1.
Introduction to the Blog: This blog describes the University of Washington Program on the Environment course, ENVIR 380, Wilderness in the Anthropocene. Below is my introduction to the course and my reflections on wilderness*. Each student has contributed one post to this blog. We had a truly unforgettable trip with gorgeous (albeit hot) weather, deep discussion, and amazing camaraderie amongst an inspiring group of young folks, representing a range of identities and backgrounds. For one week, we sought solitude from the human-dominated parts of our landscape, and marveled at sunrises and sunsets, climbed and descended snowy passes, swam in cold lakes, and stargazed in one of the most spectacular alpine campsites ever. However, we were also sobered by uncharacteristically hot weather, a nearby fire, and evidence for a rapidly disappearing glacier, reminding us that even remote natural areas are no longer immune to the ravages of Anthropogenic climate change.
Acknowledgments: I want to acknowledge that our course took place in vicinity of Takobia (aka Glacier Peak) close to the reservations of the Sauk-Suiattle Tribe (west of Takobia) and the Colville Tribes (east of Takobia). The Colville tribes include the descendants of the šnp̍əšqʷáw̉šəxʷ (Wenatchi) on whose ancestral lands we spent the week living, learning, and exploring. We owe a debt of gratitude to these people, past and present, for stewarding these lands——lands that are in fact not really “wilderness,” a term used by colonizers to sometimes “erase” the presence of Indigenous people. Rather, we prefer the term “remote nature“, which more accurately acknowledges the minimal impact of modern human technology, while simultaneously acknowledging the presence and influence of people living sustainably on these lands since time immemorial. As well, we owe them allyship in their fight to exercise treaty rights on lands and waters that were taken from them by the federal government, and recognize them as important co-managers of the landscape with the United States Forest Service.
I want to offer a huge shout out and thank you to Courtney Peetz for being an all around rock-star assistant leader, and for coordinating all of our delicious trail meals. I also want to thank Claire Giordano for joining us again as an unofficial assistant, and as an inspirational guest instructor in landscape painting.
Introduction to the Course: It was truly a pleasure to spend 8 days in the wilderness with the inspirational group of people you see below, on the 12th annual offering (click here and here and here for some previous years’ blogs) of the interdisciplinary summer field course, ENVIR 380: Wilderness in the Anthropocene, offered by the University of Washington Environmental Studies Program. The course was taught primarily through the lens of an eight-day wilderness backpacking trip (July 6-14, 2024), bookended by online reading, discussion, and reflection assignments. This year, for the first time ever, we explored the spectacular Glacier Peak Wilderness, beginning our hike near Leavenworth on the east slope of the Cascades. The wilderness landscape served as a baseline for reflection on changes in the regional landscape in the distant (back to the last ice age) and recent (the last 150 years of European settlement and industrialization) past, why these changes occurred (or are occurring) and what they mean for our future, from ecological and social standpoints. Using wilderness as a baseline, we also challenged the idea of wilderness itself: how the concept of wilderness came to be, who it serves, who it doesn’t, and even who it has harmed. Through reflection on our individual wilderness experiences, we assessed the value wilderness, both as an idea and as a place, to society in the Anthropocene, this critical juncture in Earth’s history.

The group poses at the sign marking the entrance to Glacier Peak Wilderness. L-R back row: Dru Boogs, Bill Baxter, Anna Linnenkamp, Kayla Engelhardt, Tim Billo, Nancy Gau, Shriya Prasanna, Eloise Schell, Anaelle Enders. Seated L-R Front: Courtney Peetz, Evian Adams, Kaija Koenigberg. Photo by Claire Giordano
Each student on the course led an evening discussion around a topic he/she/they were interested in, often incorporating outside quotes and background studies as a way to introduce the topic and provide more fodder for discussion. With such a small and close-knit group, and the setting sun as a backdrop, the discussions take place in an idyllic “classroom” where everyone takes a turn weighing in. Discussion topics over the years have been wide-ranging, reflecting the diversity and creativity of students who have taken the course over the years. A sampling of topics we have discussed over the years include, in no particular order: 1) ethics around the use of technology in wilderness, 2) ethics and implications around hands-on natural resource management in wilderness, including removal of species such as mountain goats and barred owls in Olympic National Park, suppression/implementation of fire, assisted migration of plants and animals, and reintroduction of grizzly bears, 3) changing concepts of wilderness in the 21st Century, 4) the historic and present place of Native Americans in Wilderness and national parks, and the connection between decimation of Indigenous peoples with the development of American wilderness philosophy, 5) exploring work versus recreation in nature, and ensuing dichotomies in environmental philosophy which develop from these two perspectives, 6) what wilderness can or can’t teach us about sustainability, 7) what wilderness can teach us about environmental activism and an evaluation of activism in general as part of the environmentalist toolkit, 8) balancing wilderness protection with the encouragement of increased visitation and equitable access for all people, 9) contrasting views on conservation in eastern, western, and Indigenous philosophy, 10) access to wilderness and national parks, and how to make nature a safer and more accessible space for all, 11) human health and importance of access to quiet or unpeopled spaces, 12) “cancel culture” and the necessity of understanding people and cultures you disagree with, particularly in the wilderness literature canon, 13) the relationship of the wilderness idea to the American summer camp tradition, 14) eco-feminism and the masculinization/feminization of nature, 15) definitions of nature, natural, wildness, and wilderness, 16) pros and cons of wilderness as a tool for therapy, 17) importance of childhood experiences in nature, and more! As in previous years, we also discussed the known positive effects of spending time in nature (and time away from technology) on human health, while feeling its positive effects on our own health as the trip progressed.
In addition to philosophical discussions, and much laughter and camaraderie, our journey included round-the-clock observations of natural history, including evidence for past and ongoing climate change. This year’s hike had the dubious distinction of starting during an intensive heat wave that gripped much of Washington, especially the east slope of the North Cascades. It was around 95 degrees when we reached the trailhead at the old mining town of Trinity on what was supposed to be our first day of hiking. Due to the heat, we were forced to start hiking the next day, as we holed up in a campground by the river, resting in the shade. The heat stayed with us for much of the first half of the trip, and necessitated many early morning starts, and a layover day by the cool waters of Lyman Lake. We were also shocked, but not surprised, to see just how much the Lyman Glacier has retreated in the last 20 years, not to mention the last 100 years. Kayla Engelhardt documents this well in her blog post.
In this blog, each student has written about one day of the trip, and offered additional personal thoughts on the importance of wilderness, a commodity whose value has recently been questioned in some conservation circles, as we enter the Anthropocene. It is my hope that this blog conveys the power of the wilderness learning experience and its deep impact on the lives of those who are lucky enough to experience it. For those who do not have the opportunity to experience it, perhaps this blog will bring them a step closer.

Kayla compares a historical photo of the Lyman Glacier from 20 years ago, to today. Twenty years ago, it would still have been possible to walk out onto a robust ice sheet from near the point where this photo was taken. 120 years ago, one could have walked across an ice sheet hundreds of feet thick, down the entire upper valley, extending about a half mile beyond the right-hand border of this photo,
Natural History Observations: This was our first time running the course in the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and I was delighted by the diversity of birds we saw in the area, as well as fascinated by how the east slope of the Cascades differs biologically from the eastern of the Olympic Mountains. While many species of plants and animals are the same, there are many differences too, both in diversity and relative abundance. The lower forests of the Phelps Creek played host to conspicuous and abundant western tanagers and evening grosbeaks. While both species are found in the Olympics, they were much more abundant here than there. In similar habitats I also heard black-headed grosbeaks, which I have not heard in the Olympic Mountains (although they occur in the lowlands). Species I have never or rarely heard in the eastern Olympic Mountains, but which were common in the upper Phelps Creek Valley (Spider Meadow), included Nashville warblers (scrubby openings in forest before the meadow), lazuli buntings, Lincoln’s sparrows, chipping sparrows, fox sparrows, and willow flycatchers. MacGillivray’s warbler, common in subalpine shrubby meadows in the Olympics, was absent in Spider Meadow. Olive sided flycatchers were abundant and noisy in the subalpine meadows, along with yellow warblers in the willow scrub, as they are in the eastern Olympics too. Rare in the eastern Olympics are Clark’s nutcrackers, but they were common in the upper Phelps Creek Basin and Lyman Lakes area, due mostly to the abundant whitebark pines which they feed on. Whitebark pine is relatively rare in the Olympics. Spotted sandpipers were common around the lakes and rocky streams (but uncommon in the Olympics), but we did not encounter American dippers (common in the Olympics). Despite the abundant cutthroat trout in Lyman Lake, I saw no eagles of any kind, no kingfishers (except on the Chiwawa River), and no ospreys–all species I often see around Olympic lakes. While I had hoped to see white-tailed ptarmigans (absent from the Olympics) up on the ridges and snowfields of Chiwawa Mountain, none were encountered. All in all, we saw about 35 species of birds.

Long-toed salamander at Lyman Lake. Photo by Claire Giordano.
The tree species are mostly similar between the east slope of the Cascades and the eastern Olympics, with a few key exceptions: as noted above, whitebark pine is abundant in the alpine areas, along with Lyall’s larches (absent in the Olympics). Engelmann spruce is common in the montane areas (and very rare in the Olympics). Alaska cedar is absent in the valleys we visited this year (but abundant in similar looking areas of the Olympics). While we saw a decent amount of bear scat, no bears were encountered–unlike the Olympics where it is not uncommon to encounter 10 or more different bears on a similar length trip. Lyman Lake was stocked with cutthroat trout, a species I have not seen in the Olympics. Another fun find, which I have never witnessed in the Olympics, on the muddy upper slopes of Larch Knob where the snow had just gone out, I saw thousands of tiger beetles (Oregon tiger beetle?) in a frenzy of mating and provisioning of ground burrows. At Lyman Lake we were graced with the presence of a long-toed salamander. And at Larch Knob, we intruded on the territories of a chipmunk, a ground squirrel (absent from the Olympics), and a pika (absent from the Olympics). At least 2 of us were dismayed to find we had picked up ticks on this trip (also absent from the Olympic Mountains).
On the recently deglaciated terrain of the upper Lyman basin, we discovered a lot of plant species one would expect to see, including Tolmie’s saxifrage, pink, yellow, and white heather (C. tetragona absent), partridge foot, and dwarf mountain groundsel (which I have not seen in the Olympics). I was surprised to find a very out of place lone trapper’s tea bush. In this alpine area, we saw grey-crowned rosy finches and American pipits, both fairly common in the Olympics as well, often found foraging for insects on or around snowfields.
For more information on many of these species, Eloise Schell has created an excellent blog post for us.

A lone trapper’s tea on the recently deglaciated terrain above upper Lyman lakes.
Thoughts on management: Plant and animal species isolated on high ridges and snowfields (such as some of the flowers and birds discussed in the previous paragraph) will be some of the first to go extinct given current projections for human-induced climate change, and it will be up to humans to decide whether to help these species out by moving them to places more climatically amenable (assuming they are incapable of dispersal themselves), or to risk them going extinct. Whether we have a moral imperative to save species, and whether it would be ethical to move them to more amenable sites, are bigger questions which we explore on the course, especially in “wilderness” areas which we have traditionally thought of as places where nature should be left to take care of itself, where nature is “untrammeled” and man is only a “visitor who does not remain.” This question is particularly pressing in the Olympic mountains, which are an isolated range with many endemic alpine species. Currently we are in a precarious balance where more terrain becomes available as snowfields and glaciers rapidly melt (creating more space for organisms that are not dependent on snow, and/or that need bare ground), with forests gradually creeping higher up the valleys (assuming they don’t burn). The net effect is that cold loving species will become trapped on high mountain peaks and find it more difficult to disperse north and south along the corridor that the north/south Cascade mountains provide.
One issue with important ecological, ethical, and conservation ramifications, which we did discuss at some length this year, is the imminent reintroduction of grizzly bears to the North Cascades (once present in the Cascades and always absent from the Olympics). This is a species that has been thus far unable to naturally regain its former territory in the North Cascades, despite nearby wild populations in British Columbia and Idaho. An important central question within this discussion is, who is wilderness for? Is it for people, much as the originators of the wilderness idea envisaged (think John Muir, or even avid the Washington recreationalists who wrote the first guidebooks to our mountains), or is it at least equally for wildlife conservation as today’s US Forest Service and National Park Service are more likely to espouse?
Large mammals like grizzly bears need wide open spaces to roam, and it is inevitable that they will come into contact with people, either when they roam out of mountain wilderness, and across lowland roads and into nearby towns. I love the idea of a wilderness with grizzly bears, but we will need extra funding to educate people how to interact with big bears. As much as I would like to romanticize a return to the wildernesses of pre-1850, this area is fundamentally different now. Climate change aside–which will temporarily create more habitat for grizzlies–human population has been growing explosively since the late 1800s. Between 1895 and 2015, the Seattle area grew from 40,000 people to over 4.2 million. In the next 25 years, Seattle will grow by another 1.5 million. Virtually every piece of accessible habitat in the lowlands of the Puget Trough has been severely impacted by humans at one time or another, in some cases irrevocably as urban sprawl creeps outward. When the throngs of hiking enthusiasts such as ourselves, head into the mountains every summer, interactions between grizzly bears and humans will be inevitable. While they can be the pinnacle of a positive and breath-taking wilderness experience, human interactions with grizzlies can be very different from interactions with black bears, and can often end badly for either the bear or the person–unless people are taught how to co-exist properly with the bears.

Glacier Peak, as viewed from Cloudy Pass on our hike. Takobia, as it is known to some Indigenous groups is the centerpiece of the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Photo by Tim Billo.
Thoughts on Wilderness:
Due in part to the inaccessibility of the terrain, and thanks to courageous leaders who stood up to resource extraction industries around the turn of the 20th Century (and here in the PNW even into the 1960s as is the case with Glacier Peak Wilderness and North Cascades National Park), that our largest national parks, wilderness areas, and remaining large tracts of old growth were saved from the ax and/or development. It is remarkable that in only 25 miles as the crow (or eagle) flies from Seattle, an international hub of high tech industry, one can begin a walk into any number of large million acre roadless areas. It is this short gradient from ultra-urban to wilderness, that also makes the region such an appealing place to live, as well as a unique place to reflect on landscape change (past, present, and future), and ramifications of this change (namely, the loss or gain of “wild” spaces) for society in the Anthropocene.
It would be wrong to go further without acknowledging that wilderness as an idea, and ultimately as a physical space (Wilderness with a capital “W”), have respectively been responsible for the psychological erasure and physical removal of Native Americans from their homelands, causing traumas that cannot be undone. With that said, for those who cherish landscapes where the preservation and conservation of nature has been prioritized, and many Native Americans I have spoken to do, wilderness has been a blessing in disguise, especially when we consider the likely alternative (logging and mining interests running roughshod over most of the landscape). There is further recognition that our wilderness lands are probably too vast to be properly managed by (or at this point, to belong to) any one entity and this is where we are increasingly seeing co-management between tribes, state, and federal entities. I don’t want to paint too rosy of a picture here with respect to tribes (and it wouldn’t be my place to do so), but my feeling is that we are headed in the right direction. There is increasing acknowledgement of the rights of tribes to both manage and harvest resources across all of their treaty lands (including those designated as Wilderness), and that Indigenous traditions (including fire management techniques) are creating healthier ecosystems and teaching all of us how to be better stewards of the lands and waters that sustain us. I should also add that in many cases, it is my feeling the tribes are going above and beyond–again an example we should herald and follow as society: Near our hike, for example, the Yakama Nation has been actively involved (along with federal agencies) in overseeing the cleanup of an old mine (which should have been cleaned up by the mining company) just outside of the wilderness boundary. This has huge benefit to not only the protected lands of the upper Lake Chelan and Lyman Creek, but to downstream communities and fisheries on the Columbia River (where the Yakama Nation is based today).
I should also acknowledge that wilderness recreation has not always been accessible to everyone in our society. The ills of racism, sexism, classism, poverty and more have conspired to restrict who has traditionally benefitted from wilderness recreation. This course is one small attempt to combat those ills and make the wilderness experience more open to all, and to perhaps foster a new generation of leaders who will further open these spaces to all who would desire to see what they have to offer.

Claire Giordano displays a painting she created on our trip. Claire views art as an “act of hope” in a time when it may feel like there is not a lot of hope. Art forces us to slow down and savor the beauty, even as we face a time in Earth’s history where nature is changing rapidly at our hands. Photo courtesy of Claire Giordano.
Reflections on this year’s course:
As with every year I teach this course, I relish the opportunity for reflection on what our local wilderness areas teach me about myself and the greater landscape of “home”, as well as the many values our wilderness spaces offer society, from the ecological to the psychological. Extended wilderness travel offers us rare time and space (both of which are commodities in today’s world), to connect with our past, and to think deeply about how we might move forward as a society at this critical juncture in earth’s history, the beginning of the Anthropocene era.
Trained as a biologist, I have personally always been attracted to the ecological benefits of wilderness preserves, from their role in providing refuge for rare species, to their role in the proper functioning of earth’s complex biogeochemical systems, as well as their role in humbling us as we reject the trappings of modern civilization; reminding us to be better stewards within a web of life that is in some ways resilient and other ways fragile. I have become convinced over the years, however, mainly from listening to my students, that the health benefits of wilderness immersion–including 1) the benefits of physical exertion (both physiological and psychological), 2) the mental benefits derived from focus on nature and disconnection from technology, 3) greater attention to life’s essential elements and rhythms, and 4)focus on genuine in-person friendship and teamwork–are among the most important benefits of wilderness in the Anthropocene. My students are growing up in a time and environment that is different from the environment I grew up in (and contrary to how I may appear, I’m not that old!). Their world is more connected electronically, but less connected to nature and to in-person relationships. And with seemingly constant news of environmental catastrophe and social strife, the state of the world often feels fundamentally uncertain and depressing. Perhaps wilderness provides the ultimate re-set, the ultimate way to unplug from the overwhelming weight of life in the modern world, and the ultimate way to re-focus on the fundamentals of healthy living that are within our control: a chance to recognize and regain our physical and psychological strength, a chance to create real and strong social bonds, and a chance to build strength through those bonds, through sharing and identifying our common feelings and emotions, and shared desire to address the ills of the world with renewed vigor.
As is painfully obvious at the end of any wilderness trip, most of us do not spend most of our lives in wilderness (nor perhaps would most of us want to–but I think we can all agree that we would desire to spend a little more time in wilderness than we do). It is about what we learn from being immersed in a resilient yet fragile natural environment with only the resources on our backs and the ingenuity of our peers, and how we apply that learning to the places where we spend the majority of our lives. It is about how nature makes us feel small and humble, yet grateful, and ultimately powerful to steward our natural and built environments for a more sustainable future. And for those of us who do desire and/or are privileged to spend more time in wilderness, how can we make the experience available to others? And how can we get involved politically to insure that areas for nature recreation and contemplation are expanded (and not rolled back)? Today’s generations are the beneficiaries of people and groups (such as the North Cascades Conservation Council and Olympic Park Associates) who fought fiercely for these places–places we often take for granted, and places that can be rolled back for other uses if we disengage from democracy.
More than anything, the students inspire me and give me hope for the future. They bring so much passion, energy, bravery, and nuanced thinking to a world that seems ever more complex and fragile. I feel so grateful and privileged to be able to lead these trips. I feel so lucky that we safely (and with high spirits) navigated one of the most extreme heatwaves this area has ever seen, along with a nearby wildfire whose smoke was thankfully blowing away from us most of the time. The elements stressed us and our nature kin, but we collectively found ways to adapt. As always, I am humbled and strengthened by nature, and privileged to have spent 8 days traveling with such inspiring students. Thank you. And enjoy their blog posts.
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As each student has done on their individual post, I will offer a personal reflection on wilderness which I have posted in a separate blog post at the end of all the student posts.
Picture taken Sunday morning from the first campsite we stayed at.






Start of the second day of hiking at Spider Meadow. Kayla pictured at the back of the group. Image credit: Nancy.






























































































