September 6, 2024
Day 4: Smell and Taste
September 2, 2024
Gelato: Adelin, Cole, Anjana
Anjana – After a hectic morning of missed buses, expensive scooter rides, and an uber XL, we all managed to arrive at the Rome center in one piece. The Roman sun was unrelenting, and it beat down on us until we entered the Pantheon. Once we stepped inside, the noise leveled off into a low murmur, echoing as it bounced across the huge marble walls. The pinnacle of the Pantheon is its huge domed roof, and my eyes immediately traced the walls until they arced into a single point at the top. Here, light filtered through an oculus and filled the building with a soft glow.
The Pantheon itself maintained a neutral color palate, with tan walls that had speckles of orange, grey, red, and blue mixed into the marble. Huge statues of pagan gods adorned the walls, alongside a few Christian figures. The most surprising part of my experience was learning that the Pantheon doubled as a graveyard, and was home to some of the most illustrious Italians across history. The most famous tomb belongs to Raphael, one of Italy’s most celebrated artists of the renaissance period. A few kings and queens lay within the Pantheon as well, and we saw their royal tombs hoisted upon the wall of the Pantheon, protected by pillars.
The Pantheon’s color palate and architectural design seem to speak to its purpose, with its neutral tones and strong pillars reflecting stability and power. In stark contrast was the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, a gothic church with walls painted in cobalt blue, sculptures gilded in gold, and colorful frescoes, all washed in light coming from various stained-glass windows. Though we only made a quick pit-stop at the basilica, I gained a new appreciation for medieval gothic-style architecture. Through the use of vivid imagery, the church seemed to teem with life, renewing me before the next bit of walking we would embark on.
Adelin – After we left the Basilica of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, we walked toward our next destination, the Jewish Ghetto. The walk to the Jewish Ghetto was long but enjoyable. We passed by Largo di Torre Argentina, an area filled with Roman ruins. But it’s not just home to ancient Roman columns—it’s also home to a cat colony! We saw a greyish-brown cat sitting atop a column, blending perfectly with its surroundings, and its eyes were in stark contrast to its fur and the ground beneath it.
I was responsible for presenting on the Jewish Ghetto to everyone in the class, so when we arrived, I took out my notebook with the points I had prepared. The Jewish Ghetto was an ethnic enclave marked by poverty, overpopulation, and a lack of freedom at a time when being Jewish was not widely accepted. The inhabitants were confined within walls, locked behind gates at night and allowed to work only as rag-pickers to earn a living. Despite these hardships, their faith remained strong, and the Synagogue Tempio Maggiore stands as a symbol of their strength and perseverance. Shawn and Juliana also shared with us the history of the plaques that can be seen along the streets in the Jewish Ghetto. Each plaque represents a Jewish family who lived in that exact location before being taken away during the Holocaust to concentration camps. The plaques have the names of each family member and the concentration camps where they lost their lives written on it. This story deepened my sympathy for the Jews and the next time I see a plaque, I will take a moment to acknowledge those who lived there and the lives they once had.
Before we knew it, we were on an uphill trek toward the Giardino degli Aranci, a quaint garden situated about a mile away. We passed by old ruins of the Teatro Marcello and magnificent columns that have lost their luster with time, yet still stand strong. The view from the garden was breathtaking, as being on the hill allowed us to see all of Rome, even St. Peter’s Basilica in the distance. We could hear the water from a nearby fountain, and there were dogs drinking from it, which was really cute. We had 45 minutes to journal, so I jotted down some thoughts, but I spent most of the time sketching! Every building had a unique design, some with pointed roofs, some with flat ones, and some churches had large domes. The view, along with the break, was a blessing.
Cole – Testaccio market was one of the best locations our group could have visited to align with the day’s theme of smell and taste. It was a lively, sprawling homage to what I think could be universally described as “good food.” In every other market stall, vendors were selling fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as more varieties of smoked meat and cheese than I ever thought existed. It smelled like a less corporate version of a Whole Foods. The smell of wood, leather, and street food were also prevalent in the market. Testaccio market has seen a decline in customers since its relocation in 2012, and has moved new vendors into its stalls to entice new customers in. I passed by a woodworking shop selling handcrafted souvenirs, and ended up buying a small wooden cat to bring back to my sister. After a little while, I wandered off on my own to find some food. I ended up ordering a grilled sandwich from a street food vendor. It was sausage, cheese, and avocado, a combination I was originally a bit hesitant towards but found to be amazing. While waiting for the sandwich to be made, I spent a good 15 minutes watching three pigeons fight over a discarded sandwich. Not to discredit the Pantheon, or anything else we’d seen that morning, but that was probably the most entertaining part of my day.
