December 15

Justification Statement

In the context of Western knowledge systems, textile traditions and crafts are not traditionally seen as a valued form of knowledge on par with academia or public organization. This is the way it is for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is textile industries being historically women’s crafts or occupations filled by people of lower economic classes. This is not the case in other knowledge systems and pedagogies, most notably (for our purposes) in Indigenous cultures around the world. Textiles and garments form in these cultural contexts form real-world, visual-tactile representations of personal or community identity, shared history or trauma, authority or nobility, occupation or community role, as well as healing and reconciliation. Not only are the crafts themselves greatly valued, but the information, identities and traditional knowledges deemed valuable by the communities are inseparable from their textile traditions. As someone who places an enormous amount of herself into each sewn garment I create, I want to explore what that change in social weight and epistemology looked like, and how a reframing of textile traditions using Indigenous frameworks different contexts can help us learn more about the textile material record.

December 15

References

Here is the depositing spot for all of my resources and citations across the whole blog. For your convenience, sources will be sorted by the post Categories, and by large umbrella terms to make tracking down resources easier. All my sources will be cited in Chicago author-date format.

Pacific Northwest and Alaska

Ravenstail Weaving:

Samuel, Cheryl. 1987. The Raven’s Tail. Vancouver: UBC Press.

“A Day in the Life of: Chas’ Koowu Tla’a Teri Rofkar.” 2015. Juneau Empire. October 7, 2015. https://www.juneauempire.com/life/a-day-in-the-life-of-chas-koowu-tlaa-teri-rofkar/.
“Teri Rofkar.” n.d. Rasmuson Foundation (blog). Accessed December 14, 2022. https://rasmuson.org/enjoy-cat/art-collection/teri-rofkar/.
“Teri Rofkar – Native Arts and Cultures Foundation.” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://web.archive.org/web/20171201032254/http://www.nacf.us/teri-rofkar.

Stonington Gallery. “Evelyn Vanderhoop’s Ravenstail Robe Enters the Collection of the MFA Boston.” Stonington Gallery, December 28, 2019. https://stoningtongallery.com/22612-2/.

 

Chilkat Robes:

Laura Matalka. 2018. “Lily Hope.” Native Arts and Cultures Foundation (blog). April 17, 2018. https://www.nativeartsandcultures.org/lily-hope.
“Tracing a Lineage of Chilkat Weavers in ‘A Life Painted in Yarn.’” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.ktoo.org/2022/07/09/tracing-a-lineage-of-chilkat-weavers-in-a-life-painted-in-yarn/.
“NEWS_Sealaska Heritage Publishes Biography on Prolific Chilkat Weaver | Sealaska Heritage.” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.sealaskaheritage.org/node/1590.
“Weaving a New Narrative – the Interwoven Radiance Exhibition Is Celebrated – Native Arts and Cultures Foundation.” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.nativeartsandcultures.org/weaving-a-new-narrative-the-interwoven-radiance-exhibit-in-portland-is-celebrated.

Central and South America: 

Khiqu:

Urton, Gary. 2003. Signs of the Inka Khipu : Binary Coding in the Andean Knotted-String Records. 1st ed. Austin: University of Texas Press.

Urton, Gary. “A Calendrical and Demographic Tomb Text from Northern Peru.” Latin American Antiquity 12, no. 2 (2001): 127–47. https://doi.org/10.2307/972052.

McEwan. “Quipu: British Museum.” The British Museum, 2009. https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/E_Am1907-0319-286. 

Saez-Rodriguez, A. (2014). Khipu UR19: Inca measurements of the moon’s diameter and its distance from the Earth/Quipu UR19: Mediciones realizadas por los incas del diámetro de la luna y de la distancia que nos separa de la luna. Revista Latinoamericana De Etnomatemática, 7(1), 96-125. https://www.proquest.com/scholarly-journals/khipu-ur19-inca-measurements-moons-diameter/docview/1689656050/se-2

International Connections: 

Native Aids Quilt:

 Carocci, M. (2010). Textiles of Healing: Native American AIDS Quilts. Textile : the Journal of Cloth and Culture, 8(1), 68–84. https://doi.org/10.2752/175183510X12580391269986

Peacock Dress:

Thomas, Nicola J. “Embodying Imperial Spectacle: Dressing Lady Curzon, Vicereine of India 1899-1905.” Cultural Geographies 14, no. 3 (2007): 369–400. http://www.jstor.org/stable/44251153.
Trust, National. n.d. “The Peacock Dress 107881.” Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object.
“All That Is Gold: Recreating The Peacock Dress.” n.d. The Costume Society. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://costumesociety.org.uk/blog/post/all-that-is-gold-recreating-the-peacock-dress.
“A Message to Cathy Hay from an Indigenous Seamstress – YouTube.” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLNBaxSAktk.
“The Peacock Dress: A Tale of White Women’s Privilege and Tears. | Her Hands, My Hands.” n.d. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://herhandsmyhands.wordpress.com/2021/09/24/the-peacock-dress-a-tale-of-white-womens-privilege-and-tears/.
“Cathy Hay vs. Her Followers.” n.d. The Craftsmanship Initiative. Accessed December 14, 2022. https://craftsmanship.net/sidebar/cathy-hay-v-her-followers/.
December 14

About Me: Self Reflexive Research

Hi everyone! My name is Phaedra McArdle and I am a third-year undergraduate at the University of Washington, majoring in linguistics and archaeology. I want to spend this section talking a little bit about who I am in relation to my research and why it matters to me. I’m a white woman from the US and Hong Kong, and I am also, queer, Autistic and disabled, and carry these perspectives and lived-experiences with me in my analysis.

I started becoming fascinated with fashion history, textile and garment archaeology/museology, and original practice reconstruction when I was about 16, facilitated at first by the wealth of material on historical costuming on Youtube. I had always been very expressive with my clothing and it was an avenue of freedom for me. I love learning about everything from the trade economies that brought fabric and raw materials to the minutiae of technique and methodology of creating garments to how those garments become cultural fundamentals and avenues for human express
ion. Experimental garment archaeology and original practice in particular are hugely interesting to me, since I love to hand sew and gain an understanding for how it must have felt to make the same dress or shirt. There is something so human about decorating ourselves in things we spend so much time and heart on, they feel like they are a part of us.
Since I have such a deep love for fashion and the craft of sewing in general, I wanted to explore what those traditions looked like outside my normal span of research, which tends to be Western Europe, and center them in a lens Indigenous knowledge systems. On a personal level, I wanted to understand the differing roles of textile and garment making traditions around the world, and how they are affected and shaped by global phenomena like colonization, the slave trade and industrialization.
December 14

Introduction

Hello and welcome to Dancing Baskets!
This is an academic anthology blog, created for a college level Indigenous archaeology class, that aims to explore and showcase different Indigenous textile traditions and industries (focusing primarily on North and South America) and how they function as or within Indigenous knowledge systems or ways or knowing. In the class I created this blog for, we discussed much about the nature of Indigenous versus Western/colonial pedagogies and epistemologies, and where those pedagogies live in the societies that cultivate them. These conversations covered things like what kinds of knowledge are deemed valuable, whose knowledge is deemed valuable, and the cultural backdrops that frame these pedagogies. Through this blog and all the research it serves as a culmination and showcase for, I wanted to gain an understanding of how Indigenous textile cultures, industries and traditions serve as and fundamentally affect the pedagogies they are a part of. Because most of the frameworks we learned about were centered in the United States, that is where I’ve chosen a lot of my case studies from, but I will also be discussing a few garments, artists and traditions from other regions of the world, such as India. 
Guiding Research Questions
These functioned as guidelines for my research and kept me centered as I looked for case studies.
  1. How are textiles integral to different Indigenous ways of knowing in North America?
  2. What cultural roles do they play and how have those roles changed over time and the advent of colonization?
  3. How do these textile traditions and their corresponding knowledge systems thrive today and what is their relationship to historical events in a broader context?
  4. What insights do modern Indigenous weavers and textile craftspeople have about their culture’s textile traditions and its knowledge lifeways?
  5. How does repatriation of textile belongings serve to bolster those knowledge systems and the revitalization of Indigenous communities?
Why “Dancing Baskets”?
I chose to name this blog “Dancing Baskets” because I absolutely fell in love with the term when I first read about it. It is a term used to describe Raven’s tail woven robes coined by esteemed and revolutionary Tlingit weaver researcher Teri Rofkar, or Chas’ Koowu Tla’a, who we will discuss much in the post titled The Raven’s Tail! She describes them this way as the experience of creating one is, to her, very similar to basket weaving, a process she was intimately familiar with and tremendously skilled at. Not only is the twining of bark and wool a process that binds the two crafts, but the robes themselves were meant to dance and swirl with the wearer. She was hugely influential for her community and her craft, and I look to her as a huge personal source of inspiration as a craftsperson and community member.